Next stop on this runaway Pacific swell train is Nicaragua, where all that energy from XXL Chile made its way up to central America for the day of the season so far.
Nicaragua was pumping last week. A swell which peaked at 4ft@16 seconds from the SSW on Friday morning with all-day offshores created fast and hollow, tubular punchy-ness. And there’s risk with that of course. Big-wave hellhound and local shredder Manny Resano copped a few whirlwind wipeouts and eventually had to sit the rest of the session out.
Forecast: Playa Colorado.
"I went straight to the reef, hit my head pretty hard, the noise of the impact was scary," said Manny.
"After a few good ones and a broken board, a massive double came my way. I took off super deep, but my board was a bit too fast, not letting me stay deep in the barrel. I also noticed that the lip was taking a lot longer to cover the distance from the top of the wave to actually hitting the water.
"The wave had some imperfections that I navigated at the drop, pulled in a massive barrel, got pitted, drew a higher line to exit the barrel and the lip touched my board. I lost a bit of control and the second section came quick at me and I had no other choice to pull in and die in the barrel.
"Then it dragged me thru the reef and gave me cuts all over my body. I had no doubts because of the violence from hitting the reef that it was time to go to the clinic — end of the session for me."
My plan was to go only in the biggest and hollower waves. It had to be worth if it I was going to visit the reef.
And how was it before the session-ending injury? "I was pretty stoked with the swell. We traded some heavy waves with a cool local crew; no hype, no ego, just some surfers trying to get barrelled and have a good time! The lineup was very well organised, everyone knew their place and what to do. We also had the honour to share the session with Tamayo Perry."
13-year-old Lanzarote super grom Makoa Gomez was also out there and charging. "The swell has been sick," said Makoa.
"The conditions were nice offshore wind but with strong currents. It was gnarly and the waves had lot of power. I got lucky and took some good bombs so I’m super happy! It was the best swell I've had since my last swell in La Santa, at home in Lanzarote.
"Manny’s injury was so heavy, It was very dangerous out there and that proved it."
"Everyone got some good waves on the first day," said local Nicaraguan Jackson Obando. "The second day was a lot bigger but I missed it because I had to go to the city. I saw videos from that day and the boys got some good waves!"
Kevin Cortez snagged more than a few barrels over these two days, just check him out in that image above. There's deep and then there's deep.
Kevin shared his thoughts on the sessions. "The last swell we had was epic, at first it was kinda tough the first day because I feel like we were expecting more than what we got that day.
"The second day, conditions got a bit better with the winds and rip current making it a much cleaner and easier place to wait for the set waves.
"But for me I feel like the best session came a few days later. It was the last bump of the swell and I think at that time is when we all got the best waves. Me; Mateo Blevins, Jason Vado, Oscar Espinoza, Carlitos Perez, Luck David and the rest of the boys paddled out with us that day we had the best waves that session."
Hit play above for a sick showreel of this latest swell to hit Nicaragua, fair warning though, there’s a bit of blood in this one.