x

Understanding the Ocean Course

by on Wednesday 4th August, 2010   10129 Views

© 2014 Inigo Guillonnet

CHOOSE either a one day introduction or a two day comprehensive course on everything that creates the swells you ride. From internet forecasting to swell propagation. No previous knowledge required. Taught by Tony Butt.

Tickets £50 for the weekend or £25 for just Saturday’s introduction. Cornwall College Tolcarne, Tolcarne Beach, Newquay. Buy them HERE.

Dates:
Part 1 - The Basics: Saturday 4th Sept 2010, 10:00 to 16:00 (what is a wave, swell formation, propagation, breaking waves, basic forecasting)
Part 2 - Further Understanding: Sunday 5th Sept 2010, 10:00 to 16:00 (further forecasting, geology, directional spectrum)

Who is it for?

Surfers and other coastal water-users, with or without any previous mathematical or scientific qualifications

What would you get out of it? 

An insight into where the waves come from, what happens to them as they travel towards the coast and why they are the way they are when we surf them, in addition to some knowledge into how to read weather charts, how wave-forecasting models work and how to make the best of the forecasting resources.  The course does not lead to an academic qualification of any sort and there are no exams or certificates at the end. 

Prerequisites: None. 

Number of places: Minimum 30, maximum 40

Price: £25 or £50

© 2014 Marcelo Diaz

Session 1: Saturday 10:00 to 13:00

1. Introduction and basic concepts
• Who am I and what’s this course all about?
• Anatomy of a wave: height, period, wavelength etc.
• Journey of an energy packet, from the Sun to your surfboard

2. Generation of waves on the ocean surface
• Where do the waves we ride come from?
• How waves grow out of the ocean surface
• Why waves don’t just keep growing forever

3. Swell propagation in deep water
• The difference between swell and windsea
• Swell dispersion
• Real swells propagating from the storm centre

© 2014 Marcelo Diaz

Session 2: Saturday 14:00 to 16:00

4. Grouping
• The formation of wave groups (sets) in deep water
• Individual wave speed and group speed
• The strange properties of wave groups

5. Approaching the coast
• The slowing down of waves as they hit shallow water
• Refraction: how waves bend around reefs, points and sandbars
• Height transformation: why waves ‘jack up’ before breaking

6. When the waves break
• Why do waves break?
• When will a wave break?
• Breaking wave profiles and factors that influence the profile

7. Summary and questions

© 2014 Juan Fernandez.

Session 3: Sunday 10:00 to 13:00

8. Coastal geology
• Basic principles: how the waves move the sediment
• The importance of feedback
• The formation of beach sandbars: two- and three-dimensional
• Rivermouth sandbars: why they are so special

9. Wave forecasting 1: history of wave forecasting
• What did we do before the internet?
• The all-important isobar chart: analysis and forecast charts
• Development of the first numerical wave models
• Empirical models v. models based on real physics

10. Wave forecasting 2: modern wave forecasting
• How they do it nowadays
• Public access to data
• Why the information they give us sometimes isn’t quite enough
• Examples of typical problems


Session 4: Sunday 14:00 to 16:00

11. Wave forecasting 3: the directional spectrum
• What is a spectrum and why is it so important?
• Bandwidth: the sea doesn’t just contain waves of a single period
• Directional spread: the waves don’t just come from one direction
• Dissecting the directional spectrum
• Practical examples

12. Summary and questions


Book now HERE and stop guessing, start knowing.

Comments
Average rating of 3.5698 from 0 votes

10129 Visits -

Video The Ripple Effect: Bob Hurley
1134

The Ripple Effect: Bob Hurley

The final episode of The Ripple Effect tells the story of how the humble brainchild of an eccentric genius changed the entire surf industry

Video Russell Bierke – Not Your Typical 16-year-old
6754

Russell Bierke – Not Your Typical 16-year-old

A year following 16-year-old Russell Bierke charging Shipsterns, Hawaii and South Coast NSW

Video Filipe Toledo and Yago Dora Unleash
1282

Filipe Toledo and Yago Dora Unleash

Brazilian stuntmen Filipe Toledo and Yago Dora have a blast on these fun looking beachies

Feature Are Egos Getting in The Way of Safety?
10661

Are Egos Getting in The Way of Safety?

As the boundaries of surfing are constantly pushed into the distance, Matt Rott questions surfing's relationship with the helmet

Video Living It Up on Lombok
3592

Living It Up on Lombok

Soli Bailey, Tai Graham, and Harrison Roach chase a healthy swell over a week on Lombok

Feature Bali Delivers
8078

Bali Delivers

Late July brings perfect conditions to Bali and Lombok