THE third day at the End of the Road spanned the paddle tow divide with inevitable consequences.
Wipeouts, crazy drops from some demented version of ‘makable’ and all-round heroics dominated the dropping swell. Mark Healy, Kohl Christensen, Wade Goodall, Peter Mel, Koa Rothman, Dingo Morrison, Nasty Nate, Reef Mcintosh plus a host of others went toe-to-toe with fatigue, sunstroke and the horror stories of the previous days to drop into situations no less critical than seen during the first two days of the swell.
Kepa finds himself in a land of perpetual dancing and broad smiles.
Pick a solid swell, make the treacherous paddle, avoid the fang-like rocks on the inside, and you could score some of the longest rights of your life.
If Jack Kerouac surfed he would have chewed his beatnik leg off to get on this trip. Desert Point to Shipstern and everything in between.
Not all winter is cold, even if the country is in danger of washing away there will be surfers lapping up the storms
Those two imposters, triumph and disaster, go hand in hand in the sport of bodyboarding, especially for those hellmen who push the boundaries of what is surfable.