1 of 21
As we arrived we saw a perfect 15ft set, not a drop of water out of place. I got my 10'2 DVG ready and left Alan on the ski to shoot pictures. All the usual guys were out: Mickey Duffus, Simon Lowe, Mike Schlebach, Dave Smith, Jake Kolnik and a whole bunch of other locals including a new, younger crew. Matt Bromley arrived back from Hawaii just in time for the swell and got an epic barrel on the inside section - not easy on a 9'6 board. Simon had some epic late drops on his 10'6 and was surfing amazingly well for a guy that just had a knee operation a few days before! Dave had one insane late drop on his 9'0, taking off under the lip. The waves remained perfect the whole day with a lot of the guys having two long sessions. I had one of the best days that I can remember and surfed for 10 hours. As the sun dropped low in the sky I dropped Alan off on the beach in Kommetjie and rode back to Hout Bay by myself on the ski, sneaking one final look at Dungeons before making it back to the harbour at 6pm. The waves had been closer to 15ft rather than the 20 plus we live for, but hell after 12 hours of perfect 15 footers all the guys were stoked! Lets hope that this is the start to an epic winter of waves.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Matt Bromley running from the white water. The mountain in the background is called the Sentinel and looks over Dungeons.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
John Bromley with the house going upside-down behind him. John is Matt's father. You wouldn't say that he was your average 57-year-old.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
This is the first wave we saw when we arrived from Dungeons. Enough to get anyone amped.© 2014 ,Alan van Gysen
Some of the younger guys haven't quite perfected the take off yet.© 2014 ,Alan van Gysen
The big wave surfing fraternity has always been intimate, here Danny and Conn Bertish grab a moment.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Dave Smith making it look easy on his 9'0.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Long time Sunset local Jake Kolnik on a bomb.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
This is me, Jeremy Johnson, on a smaller insider.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Mickey and Chip sharing the peak and showing the young guns how its done.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
The lefts were super clean all day. This is me on a smooth one.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Matt trying not to go the falls with his board.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Myself and Mickey going left, Matt and Conn going right.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Mickey Duffus is a big wave legend in these parts. He had a big birthday the other day but still has more style than ever.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Someone about to go down hard on the left, an unknown soldier who stepped over the line.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Apparently one percent of waves in a swell can be up to twice the average. On a big day these are the rouge sets which keep you on your toes.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
This is a great shot of Mike taken from the left, he looks like he's riding a 6.0 and eyeing the lip for a bit of abuse.© 2014 ,Alan van Gysen
Chip Snaddon was all over the lefts.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
Mike charges hard and is always a standout.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
John Farrel looking for the barrel on another perfect left.© 2014 Alan van Gysen
It may be too late for the ASP Big Wave World Tour, but Dungeons lit up.
Conor Maguire harks towards a time when the cold and dark wraps back in and the lows deepen, spinning thick ropes of swell towards Ireland.
Italy has waves and Sardinia has some of the best spots, places you would not believe. Leonardo Fioravanti knows that better than most...
From the Caribbean to Nova Scotia (and maybe even Europe) the forecast is for a medium sized swell to grace your local beach.
Like a lot of the waves in the edit, this one is a grower. Dusty Payne and Yadin Nicol make light work of things you'd sail on by.
Highlight of the day was the 17-year-old brother of local legend Manoa. He blew everyone away.