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Our good mate Benny Richo was heading up that way as well and was keen to hook up. He's an abalone diver and spends a lot of time up that way -- a great addition to this trip. Six and half hours, two coffees and two vees later we arrived at our destination, exhausted but interested on what awaited. Richo wasn't meeting us till that night, so we decided to start the hunt for waves. It's hit and miss around these parts with most of the time it being a miss. After taking about five different 4wd tracks we finally reach the coast and stumble upon some potential. A bombie breaking 1/2 km out to sea would peak-up, break, then reform on another ledge. We called it 12ft plus and it looked like the bigger the better. The wind was bending up the coast at this location, making it onshore so we put it in the book of knowledge and hopefully be back there soon...© 2014 Stu Gibson
It's a good feeling surfing on the west coast. The air seems so much cleaner. Farming land backs onto the dunes and the car parks are on the waters edge. Falling asleep listening to the waves break and insects chirping is a meditative experience.© 2014 Stu Gibson
We awaken the next morning to clear blue skies and a clean offshore. The swell had dropped slightly but was still 8ft on exposed spots. Most of the coastline here is only accessible by water, so we launched the skis and headed north. We came across more than a dozen reefs but unfortunately only one location worthy of jumping off the ski. This one.© 2014 Stu Gibson
It was a real borderline slab, we surfed it but got whopped on a few.© 2014 Stu Gibson
At around 6ft the slab was breaking into 1ft of water. Due to vert cliffs being 50m away, it was affected by backwash and side wash and we couldn't imagine this ever not happening. Coupla waves later and a snapped board, we decided to head back to camp before the wind picked up.© 2014 Stu Gibson
The afternoon was spent surfing a fun 5ft bowly right-hander and finished the day with some cold Cascade Draught and barbie with the local lads.© 2014 Stu Gibson
Once we paddled out the clouds parted slightly and Richo and myself traded pits for the next three hours. I came unstuck on my last wave and burst my ear drum, but I'd had enough waves to be content and shit happens.© 2014 Stu Gibson
It may be too late for the ASP Big Wave World Tour, but Dungeons lit up.
Conor Maguire harks towards a time when the cold and dark wraps back in and the lows deepen, spinning thick ropes of swell towards Ireland.
Italy has waves and Sardinia has some of the best spots, places you would not believe. Leonardo Fioravanti knows that better than most...
From the Caribbean to Nova Scotia (and maybe even Europe) the forecast is for a medium sized swell to grace your local beach.
Like a lot of the waves in the edit, this one is a grower. Dusty Payne and Yadin Nicol make light work of things you'd sail on by.
Highlight of the day was the 17-year-old brother of local legend Manoa. He blew everyone away.