XCEL’S Core Files featuring Greg Long, the Mr Darcy of big wave surfing on still heading-up the vanguard of paddle.
“It was just like that. Everything in my surfing life was just turned upside-down.” Said Greg. “Contests didn’t matter, my performance surfing was dismissed. I knew then, big waves, that’s my love and passion.”
The Xcel Core Files Series is a behind the scenes look at five surfers that have dedicated their lives to traveling and surfing the best waves in the world year round. From Jaws to Jersey and beyond Albee Layer, Greg Long, Mike Gleason, Jeremy Johnston, and Ryan Seelbach define commitment. These are their stories.
Entry to The Winter Session has closed for this season. The task remains of picking a pair of winners for February, then sorting through all the edits in search of an overall victor.
Three months of non stop storms ended abruptly in Les Landes on Thursday.
Skeleton Bay providing the implausibly long tunnels for which it is known.