BRUCE Irons surfs solid Teahupoo blindfold, proving that ability and instinct transcend our assumed necessity for vision.
When Sam at Stab Mag rang and told us this is what he had planned, we just laughed. But after scouring the charts we latched onto a late season swell and Bruce stepped up to the plate as promised. Pulling what he called “panties” over his head, Bruce Irons, dropped down the face and threaded constant companions ability and instinct to safety.
“It’s really something to see someone that knowledgeable ride a wave, to see his hand in the face, reading it as if it was Braille.” said Tahitian photog Domenic Mosqueira.
“I’ve tried to close my eyes in the barrel before, just messing around, but, with those pantie things on my head, it was weird.” Said Bruce. “My eyes were open but all I saw was black. But, if you grew up surfing, you can call on that instinct you’ve built. You can feel how close you are to the wave face. The thing is, the best barrels you get, the deepest ones, you don’t know what you’re doing ‘cause it’s black in there and you’re riding the foamball like a rodeo.”
Two separate systems gift glorious barrels to surfers on both sides of the Atlantic.
Jamie O'Brien takes Poopies and Kalani Chapman to Jaws, but this is not your ordinary Jaws mission. JOB and the boys rent Catch Surf soft-top boards and this happens...
Gabriel Medina won, Stephanie Gilmore won. They both won on the same day.
Entry to The Winter Session has closed for this season. The task remains of picking a pair of winners for February, then sorting through all the edits in search of an overall victor.